Bootloader pins and Firmware

Pistolpete2525

Ive had my Makerpi P2 for a few months and have tried to upgrade tha hot end to a high temp all metal. Unfortunatly I have not been able to find information on what pins on the board are what spesifically so I can use my raspberry pi to directly connect and upload a bootloader for marlin.


I also need/want the original firmware just in case the Marlin plan is a bust and I need to reflash original.


The main reason I want to upgrade the firmware is to increase the maximum hotend temprature to 380c so I am able to print some of the lower grade industrial plastics and recycled PET bottles that I am building a fiistruder/ recycler for


I do have a question as to why the makerpi firmware cant be found in the downloads section and when I look up the number on the board I get a microchip data sheet and when I look up the microchip on my board it is completely diffrent from the other microchip datasheet.... there is so much confusing data as to what is actually what on the printer I am actually starting to think I should have got an ender. because there is a ton of support and information for that... Also what is the connector ribon between the screen and board called? I tried to plug the screen into an ender silent board and the display ribon had 2 more pins then the ender board. looking for a possable adaptor. also wondering if it is compatable with aftermarget boards like the bigtree brand. Since I couldnt find anywhere i could get a replacement board if mine burnt up.


Please get back to me soon, Ive had my printer apart for the past week and its my only printer. Was wanting to get a second makerpi. the p3 idex looks really nice and if the price is right I may pick one up. But if im going to have issues with upgrades like this or a bed leveling sensor, (one of my next upgrades) I may just go for an ender or something else.

sunshine

Dear friend,So sorry for the late reply.Can I have your email?This is my email:sales04@soongon.com.

micfogas

I would not advice printing very much above 300c unless you make the necessary hardware (besides the hotend) upgrades and modifications. Most materials requiring 300-380 require a heated chamber to prevent temperature shock to the cooling filament. The stepper motors and most electronic need to be externalized or actively cooled (liquid cooling is sometimes used for the stepper motors and main board). The extreme internal temperature may also affect structural integrity of your printer and gantry if it's not able to withstand prolonged exposure. Things such as belts, the extruder, carriage, cabling, end stops, etc could overheat or warp. Most industrial high temp printers compartmentalized the components with active cooling and proper shielding to keep ambient temps down around the components. Even if you kept the board and motors cooled, there's the issue of other components on the extruder assembly that can be affected.

I would advise looking up several sources for component tolerances and examine how very high temp printers are laid out, the materials used and even metal thickness, etc. I doubt you want to fry your printer, or worse, simulate a Wendy's during riots. Though capturing the moment it ignites on camera would be enjoyable.

johnrock123

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